Gírgolas, Picornells, Bolets and Setas

The mushroom period is upon us in a big way this year. Everywhere in Mallorca’s markets we find a plentitude of Girgolas, Llenguas de Bous, Peus Blaus, Esclatassangs, Picornells, Bolets, Setas de Avila and whatnots. It is a sheer pleasure to see such a variety and to have so much choice, for me anyway. Right now, the Mallorcan woods, mountains and garrigas allows us to forage for food, as long as one is into mushrooms. I have recommended the Bolets de les Balears guidebook (in Catalan only) before. It comes in two volumes at 45 € and is a very comprehensive guide.

The mountain village of Mancor de la Vall celebrates the 7th Fira de l’Esaclata-sang i de la Muntanya next Sunday (November 29th). If you are a mushroom lover, do not miss this occasion. The ajmancordelavall.net website offers a pdf download with the full programme details, if you should be so inclined.

The photo was taken in Caimari, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 22nd, 2009. The time was 13:36:42.

Slaying The Pig

Mallorca’s Moroccan population is busy preparing for Eid al-Adha (the Festival of Sacrifice, November 29th) when corderos will be slaughtered in Felanitx and elsewhere on the island. I think I might be invited by one of our neighbours.

Mallorcan families celebrate matanzas during this time of year, when pigs are sacrificed albeit not for religious reasons. An age old farming tradition is upheld here in the countryside. November/December is the time of the year when pigs are slaughtered to provide food for most of the year: sobrassadas, butifarrons, lomo and embutidos. Of course, pigs are a no-no for Muslims, but cerdos provided staple food for many of our Mallorcan neighbours during centuries, or so I believe. Matanzas are a laborious yet joyous event and a great Mallorcan tradition.

I have recently heard that having a matanza at home involving the killing of a pig does not conform to rules and regulations any longer and is deemed alegal. I cannot believe that to be true. Dozens of families that I know in our area had their matanzas already, over the last few weeks, or have them planned for the next few weeks. Perhaps it is a matter of authorities turning a blind eye as everybody senses that this is a tradition that may not live for much longer due to the changes that affect rural Spain and contemporary Mallorca. We’ll see.

A splendid book has just been published that celebrates the matanza del cerdo in Mallorca, called Porcs – Mirades tallades. Gori Vicens (Palma, 1968) is the artist behind the powerful photographs in this large format book, whilst artist Albert Pinya (Palma, 1985) offers some bucolic illustrations. The impressive visuals are accompanied by a passionate and vibrant text from the pen of Andreu Manresa (Felanitx, 1955), an El País journalist and a food lover. He lives just round the corner from our house here in Felanitx.

The book is published by Institut d’Estudis Baleàrics and retails at 45 €; it would make for a perfect gift for Christmas or for any other occasion if you want to show that you care for Mallorca and its traditions.

The top two photos were taken by Cati B. near Felanitx, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 21st, 2009. The time was 08:36:47 and 11:12:03, respectively. The bottom two photos were taken from the Internet, courtesy of dbalears.cat. Copyright for these two photos is held by Gori Vicens and the Institut d’Estudis Baleàrics.

Moltes gràcies.

The Reserva Marina Illa Malgrat

To the southwest of Santa Ponça in the Calvià municipality one finds a cluster of small islands with the names of Illa dels Conills (also known as Islote de ses Rates), L’Olla and Es Malgrat, extending over a length of approximately 2.5 km and covering some 138 ha. This archipelago of Malgrat-Olla-Conills was declared a Reserva Marina (Marine Reserve) in 2004, together with that of nearby Illa Toro. Marine reserves in Mallorca do not quite have the full protection of nature reserves but are sheltered to a considerable degree. Thanks to this protection, a great number of species find a safe refuge here, where they may reproduce in peace, maintaining a natural age structure and diversity. Algae, fish, jellyfish and coral, as well as extensive fields of underwater sea grass meadows of Posidonia oceánica coexist in this area, together with sepias, moray eels, seabass, sea horses, octupus macropus, seacows and red starfish, to name but a few. On land, one can find the protected Corys shearwater, swifts, cormorants and puffins, as well as the Balearic lizard.

One can only get to these small islands by boat or by swimming. Once there, certain kinds of fishing are prohibited: scuba fishing, professional fishing, artisan fishing and fishing competitions. Individual fishing is permitted, i. e. fishing with rod and reel, as long as a valid fishing license is secured. But the fishing of certain species of fish is prohibited: the Angel fish, the Freckled catshark, the Spotted torpedo, and sea horses. Some crustaceans are also protected, such as crabs and crawfish and some species of molluscs such as the Marine Snail, the Astraea Rugosa and the Octopus, to name but a few.

Swimming as well as paddling in canoes or kayaks is allowed. Diving is allowed for individuals once the special permits have been obtained locally, or as part of organised excursions, which are offered from local diving schools. Catamaran excursions are available at a price on a regular basis during the winter months.

If you just want to have a distant look at the islotes, Cap Negret in Santa Ponça affords some splendid views over the Malgrat archipelago, absolutely free of charge.

The photo was borrowed from the Internet. My thanks go to Diario de Mallorca. The map was also borrowed from the Web, courtesy of Guía Náutica de las Islas Baleares.

Muchas gracias.

Concentration Camps

Most people have this perception of Mallorca primarily as a holiday destination. The sun, the Mediterranean Sea, beaches, golf courses, chill-out lounges and Michelin-starred restaurants suggest an image of leisure and merriment. It seems difficult to acknowledge that there are darker aspects of Mallorca as well, and that there were some sinister moments in its history.

Not many people can imagine that concentration camps existed during the Thirties right in the middle of Mallorca, and even in the centre of Palma. One might have heard, perhaps, of thousands of French soldiers being interned in a concentration camp type prison on the island of Cabrera, but that was a long time ago (in 1809) and also, a relatively long way away. But here, in Mallorca?

Makeshift prison camps were built between Portocristo and Manacor in 1936-37 as soon as the Republican movement was defeated, at the outset of the Guerra Civil. Mallorcans talk of these camps as campos de concentracion. There is also talk of a concentration camp installation in what is known as the Balnearí de Sant Joan. At the same time, there existed a Campo de Concentración Palma de Mallorca. Ca’n Mir, a wood merchant’s place in Palma (see photo centre) was converted into a prison for political opponents, and so was Ca’n Sales (see photo above), also in Palma, the latter one for female prisoners only. The Castell de Bellver was used for Republican prisoners as well and, in particular, its underground caves.

Today there is not much evidence left of those grim installations. A plaque has recently been put up by the Ajuntament de Palma, commemorating the death of Matilde Landa, an inmate of Ca’n Sales who committed suicide there over her plight (see photo bottom), and of course, one can find scratchings and graffitis on the rock formations underneath the Castell de Bellver, if and when access to these cave dwellings is allowed.

The photo (bottom) was taken in Palma de Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: September 14th, 2009. The time was 14:34:29. The photos (top) and (centre) were borrowed from the Internet. Thanks are due to fideus.com.

Moltes gràcies.

The Festival Internacional de Dansa

The Festival Internacional de Dansa de les Balears is being presented currently at the Sala Sa Màniga in Cala Millor. Tonight, the Compañia de Dansa de Carlos Miró from Alaró will present Mediterrània (see photo). Admission is yours for 8 €. Seats are still available.

I do not know the background but let me tell you that Sala Màniga is at the forefront of contemporary dance presentations here in Mallorca. The current festival is now in its 9th edition, and I would recommend a visit if you should be interested in modern dance at all. The festival already started four weeks ago, but will continue all through the month of December. The next performance will be December 5th with Preludios Flamencos by Rocio Molino. Check out the details here (there is an English version option).

The photo was borrowed from the Internet. Thanks are due to Dansamàniga and the Teatre d’Alaró Dance Company.

Molts gràcies.

The Iscomar Doldrums

On a trip to Palma de Mallorca you may have noticed over the last three or four weeks a large yellow vessel anchoring in the Bahía de Palma. The cargo ship Pilar del Mar is anchored in the bay, perhaps 200 metres from the shore. Reason for this calamity, and a misfortune it is, is the question of money and the absence of funds. The vessel is currently not allowed to enter the port of Palma nor that of Barcelona, because the vessel’s owner owes money to both harbour authorties.

The Pilar del Mar belonged until recently to the shipping company Isleña Marítima de Contenedores (Iscomar) and still retains the emblem of the company. Iscomar recently returned the ship to its owners, a British shipping company which has hired another company as the consignee to take over the ship whilst remaining in Mallorcan waters. Ten days ago or so, Iscomar informed the ship’s crew that they should take a vacation because the company terminated the contract with the vessel’s owner. As far as I can make out there are currently only three staff members on board to maintain a minimum level of security.

Rumour has it that the Iscomar company is having trouble to survive as a viable business. If you are in the boat business you might look at a bargain situation here.

The photo (top) was taken in Palma de Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 17th, 2009. The time was 15:07:26. The photo (bottom) was borrowed from the Internet. Thanks are due to Diario de Mallorca and its photographer, Lorenzo. Muchas gracias.

The Santa Cecília Tour of Convents

At the occasion of Santa Cecília (Sancta Caecilia in Latin) next Sunday (November 22nd), the Ajuntament de Palma has put on a truly tempting programme of visits and concerts under the title Setmana de Santa Cecília. Saint Cecilia is celebrated in the western world as the patron saint of musicians and of Church music. This year, visits are organised to four Palma monasteries and convents that usually would be closed to the outside world: the Monestir de Santa Magdalena, the Monestir de les Caputxines, the Monestir de la Concepció and the Casa Mare de la Congregació de la Puresa. Each visit is then followed by a concert of mostly classical music at that particular monastery.

In this blogging business one has to be on one’s toes the whole time. I am afraid I left it a bit late to tell you, this time. The first two monastery concerts have already come and gone. Last night, there was a concert at the Caputxines convent, a remarkable place indeed dating from the 17th century. You may now have missed a visit to that distinct convent, but you can still go there during December and January, when one of Palma’s oldest nativity scenes will be on display. It would certainly be worth your while.

Two monastery visits plus concerts are remaining, though:

Tomorrow, Friday (November 20th), a visit will be allowed at the Monestir de la Concepció in Carrer de la Concepció at 19h00. Visitors will be shown the despensa de Ca ses Tomàtigues , the amasador (mess hall) and the old horno de leña (wood fired oven). In the patio, we can see the Ca sor Lluïsa underneath the Ginjoler tree. There is an admission charge of 3 € per person. You have to make a reservation by telephone (902.102.365). At 20h30, there will be a concert with classical pieces by Haydn and Brahms, as well as a contemporary work by Iván Eröd (1936). The concert is free of charge and can be booked separately.

On Saturday (November 21st), a visitation will be arranged at the Casa Mare de la Congregació de la Puresa in Palma’s Carrer de la Puresa, also at 19h00. There, we will be shown rooms from the 19th century including the old cocina, parts of the museum and some of the pieces from the collection of the venerated Madre Alberta. Admission is also 3 € per person. Reservations are required by telephone (902.102.365). At 20h30, there will be a concert of classical music by Vivaldi, Scarlatti, Haendel and Corelli. This concert, too, is free of charge and can be booked separately.

My photo shows a clavicordi played by José Luís González Uriol during last year’s Festival Internacional de Música Antiga de Caimari. The photo was chosen from my archive. It was taken in Caimari, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: December 21st, 2008. The time was 21:00:57.

The Palacete

Jaume Matas Palou, the former president of the Govern de les Illes Balears, is under investigation. Señor Matas was the Mallorcan prime minister, if you want, from 1996 to 1999 and again, from 2003 until 2007. Between these two dates, the politician served as minister under José María Aznar in Madrid, as head of the Ministerio de Medio Ambiente (environment) for Spain’s national government. He was also the president of the Balearic Partido Popular from 1999 to 2007.

Jaume Matas won the Balearic provincial elections in 2007 but did not win enough votes to be able to again form a government. Instead of heading the opposition in Palma when a coalition government under Francesc Antich was formed, señor Matas went with his wife to Washington D. C. (USA), where they have lived ever since.

The building in today’s photo shows Can Sales Menor in Palma’s Carrer Sant Feliu, a casa señorial dating from around 1850. The Matas family is said to own a large flat in the planta noble on the first floor of this building. This appartment was raided last week by agents of the Guardia Civil under instructions from the courts in Palma; you might have read about it in the local papers or seen reports about the raid in the media. Ordinary Palma people and the media call Matas’ flat in Palma ironically el palacete. Criminal investigations centre around the cost overrun by about 200 % of the Palma Arena (Palma’s velodrome) project and an alleged misappropriation of public funds. Simultaneously, Jaume Matas’ financial affairs are also under investigation by the Spanish Inland Revenue under an operation code-named Operación Buckingham. Interesting to learn that the flat in Carrer Sant Feliu was never occupied by Matas and his family, even though a large amount of money seems to have been spent on its conversion.

A court date for the Palma Arena case has not yet been set. Jaume Matas has been declared a suspect, though, and will appear at Palma’s juzgados in March 2010. Along with Matas, a number of other Partido Popular politicians as well as members of his then government have also been named as suspects.

Maria Antònia Munar, the current president of the Parlament de les Illes Balears, appeared in Palma’s courts two days ago, on a different matter, the Can Domenge case. A different blog entry, maybe some other day.

The photo was taken in Palma de Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 4th, 2009. The time was 14:04:02.

Swine Flu in Mallorca

Last weekend, Mallorca suffered its second fatal victim of the swine flu virus. A 2 year old boy died at the hospital of Son Llàtzer in Palma with symptons of La gripe A, as the H1N1 virus is called here in Spain. Last September, a 33 year old female from Nigeria died in Mallorca of the same virus and at the same hospital. As per today, the swine flu virus has caused the death of 88 people all over Spain.

Yesterday, the long awaited campaign of vaccinations against the H1N1 virus started in the Balearics. A total of 215,000 Tamiflú doses are ready to be administered by hospitals and Centres de Salut in the Illes Balears, thanks to Insalut and the Conselleria de Salud y Consumo. According to the health officials here on the island, a total of 133,000 persons are considered to be at risk in the islas. If you suspect you are one of these, you can telephone 902.079.079 between 07h00 and 21h00, Monday to Saturday, for an appointment. You can not go to any old Farmacia or Apotecario to get your flu shot there.

Having recently spoken to a medico, though, it would appear that the bigger risk this year seems to be that of the ordinary Influenza, and not the extra special Gripe A. But, vaccines against the seasonal flu have already run out in Mallorca’s hospitals and doctors’ surgeries. However, one or the other pharmacy may still have some remaining serums.

The photo was taken in Felanitx, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 10th, 2009. The time was 12:48:37.

The Pumpkin Fair in Muro

Yesterday, Muro held its annual Fira de Tardor, encompassing the Fira de Sa Carabassa (pumpkin fair and competition), plus other highlights more. Farmers from Muro and outlying pueblos had entered pumpkins into the contest, weighing in at either 39, 44, 48 or 68 kilogrammes, but were beaten to victory by entry no. 7, the biggest pumpkin I have ever seen, with 98 quilos (that’s 15.5 stone!). The proud winner, a Joan Tomàs Moncades, gained a prize of 250 € in cash as well as the envy of his peers. After the contest, Joan was inundated with requests for semillas of his prized pumpkin.

Anybody interested in the gentle flavours of the Mallorcan pumpkin was treated to a gratifying sample of a bowl of Crema de Carabassa. I have not had any better, ever.

Other than pumpkins, there are numerous treats that await one in Muro all year round, amongst them a very capable Banda de Cornetes i Tambors, a resplendent Esglèsia Parroquial de Sant Joan Baptista with its imposing bell tower, the Claustre del Convent de Santa Anna dels Mínims, the fascinating Museu Etnològic de Muro, the Esglesieta de la Sang and some other highlights which I will tell you about some other time, if you want me to. A visit to this northern town is to be recommended in earnest.

Don’t forget, there will be the Fira de s’Oliva next weekend (November 21st and 22nd) in Caimari, and the weekend after that, the Fira de s’Esclatassang i la Muntanya, in Mancor de la Vall (November 28th and 29th).

The photo was taken in Muro, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 15th, 2009. The time was 12:52:51.