The December Puente

On December 6th, 1978, Spain went to the polls to vote in a referendum to decide about the Spanish Constitution. 88 % of votes were in favour at the time. In June 1977, the first free elections since 1936 had been celebrated in Spain. The Spanish Constitution has been reformed once to extend to citizens of the European Union the right to active and passive suffrage (both, voting rights and eligibility as candidates) in municipal elections. The government of José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero (PSOE) has announced its intention to undertake a major reform of the constitution during its tenure. Not everyone in Spain is agreeing as to how to undertake such a needed reform.

As fate would have it, Jordi Solé Tura, one of the seven fathers of the Spanish Constitution died earlier last week aged 79.

December 6th is a national holiday in Spain, as is December 8th (Día de la Inmaculada Concepción de María). Fittingly, Spain celebrates what is known as a puente and makes for a four-day weekend. Next year will be even better, as December 6th, 2010, will fall on a Monday. Most shops will be closed today – and tomorrow – because of the puente, at least here in Mallorca.

The photo was taken in Palma de Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 30th, 2009. The time was 17:50:23.

Pa Amb Oli

Pa amb oli is in all probability the quintessential Mallorcan food item. It could be compared with the Catalan Pa amb tomàquet even though it is said that the Mallorcan pa precedes its Catalan cousin by about 100 years. It is also, vaguely, comparable with the Italian Bruschetta.

The name pa amb oli means, simply, bread with oil. It is essentially the combination of pa moreno (unsalted brown bread), olive oil and tomato, the latter mostly of the Tomàtiga de Ramellet variety. A Ramellet tomato is cut in half and rubbed over the bread which then is soused with Oli de Mallorca. Any one of a myriad of ingredients can be added to this bread, be it Sobrassada, thinly sliced Cuixot (air-dried ham), a variety of embotits (a kind of pork paté), cheese, anchovies or any other food item that strikes one’s fancy, including peppers, figs, grapes or indeed, sliced tomatoes.

The other day I visited Mancor de la Vall and its Fira de l’Esclata-sang i de la Muntanya where I had pa amb oli with setas (see photo). It was simply delicious.

The best book on the subject, to my mind, is Volem Pa Amb Oli, written in Catalan by Tomás Graves, the youngest son of Robert Graves. The book is also available in English, translated by the very man himself, and is available in UK as well as US editions.

The photo was taken in Mancor de la Vall, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 29th, 2009. The time was 13:28:30.

Tordos and Thrushes

Tordos (lat. Turdus philomelos, Song Thrushes) are migratory birds which come to our Mallorcan shores during the month of October. This year, the hunting season for these birds started a fortnight later than usual, on November 1st, and is now in full swing. Hunting the highly demanded thrushes is allowed with either rifle, bow and arrow or with a net, strung between two posts. Twenty tordo birds are allowed to be caught per day per person during the hunting season. The current season will finish at the end of January, 2010.

In the Illes Balears, a total of 26,000 hunting licenses are issued or renewed every year.

I found a rather interesting video on YouTube showing how tords (tordos) were caught by net somewhere near Valldemossa in 1997.

The photo (top) was taken in Caimari, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 22nd, 2009. The time was 12:20:56. The photo (bottom) was borrowed from the Internet. My thanks go to Diariodemallorca.es and the photographer, J. Mora. The video was taken from the Internet, courtesy of YouTube and Tenassa.

Slaying The Pig

Mallorca’s Moroccan population is busy preparing for Eid al-Adha (the Festival of Sacrifice, November 29th) when corderos will be slaughtered in Felanitx and elsewhere on the island. I think I might be invited by one of our neighbours.

Mallorcan families celebrate matanzas during this time of year, when pigs are sacrificed albeit not for religious reasons. An age old farming tradition is upheld here in the countryside. November/December is the time of the year when pigs are slaughtered to provide food for most of the year: sobrassadas, butifarrons, lomo and embutidos. Of course, pigs are a no-no for Muslims, but cerdos provided staple food for many of our Mallorcan neighbours during centuries, or so I believe. Matanzas are a laborious yet joyous event and a great Mallorcan tradition.

I have recently heard that having a matanza at home involving the killing of a pig does not conform to rules and regulations any longer and is deemed alegal. I cannot believe that to be true. Dozens of families that I know in our area had their matanzas already, over the last few weeks, or have them planned for the next few weeks. Perhaps it is a matter of authorities turning a blind eye as everybody senses that this is a tradition that may not live for much longer due to the changes that affect rural Spain and contemporary Mallorca. We’ll see.

A splendid book has just been published that celebrates the matanza del cerdo in Mallorca, called Porcs – Mirades tallades. Gori Vicens (Palma, 1968) is the artist behind the powerful photographs in this large format book, whilst artist Albert Pinya (Palma, 1985) offers some bucolic illustrations. The impressive visuals are accompanied by a passionate and vibrant text from the pen of Andreu Manresa (Felanitx, 1955), an El País journalist and a food lover. He lives just round the corner from our house here in Felanitx.

The book is published by Institut d’Estudis Baleàrics and retails at 45 €; it would make for a perfect gift for Christmas or for any other occasion if you want to show that you care for Mallorca and its traditions.

The top two photos were taken by Cati B. near Felanitx, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 21st, 2009. The time was 08:36:47 and 11:12:03, respectively. The bottom two photos were taken from the Internet, courtesy of dbalears.cat. Copyright for these two photos is held by Gori Vicens and the Institut d’Estudis Baleàrics.

Moltes gràcies.

The Santa Cecília Tour of Convents

At the occasion of Santa Cecília (Sancta Caecilia in Latin) next Sunday (November 22nd), the Ajuntament de Palma has put on a truly tempting programme of visits and concerts under the title Setmana de Santa Cecília. Saint Cecilia is celebrated in the western world as the patron saint of musicians and of Church music. This year, visits are organised to four Palma monasteries and convents that usually would be closed to the outside world: the Monestir de Santa Magdalena, the Monestir de les Caputxines, the Monestir de la Concepció and the Casa Mare de la Congregació de la Puresa. Each visit is then followed by a concert of mostly classical music at that particular monastery.

In this blogging business one has to be on one’s toes the whole time. I am afraid I left it a bit late to tell you, this time. The first two monastery concerts have already come and gone. Last night, there was a concert at the Caputxines convent, a remarkable place indeed dating from the 17th century. You may now have missed a visit to that distinct convent, but you can still go there during December and January, when one of Palma’s oldest nativity scenes will be on display. It would certainly be worth your while.

Two monastery visits plus concerts are remaining, though:

Tomorrow, Friday (November 20th), a visit will be allowed at the Monestir de la Concepció in Carrer de la Concepció at 19h00. Visitors will be shown the despensa de Ca ses Tomàtigues , the amasador (mess hall) and the old horno de leña (wood fired oven). In the patio, we can see the Ca sor Lluïsa underneath the Ginjoler tree. There is an admission charge of 3 € per person. You have to make a reservation by telephone (902.102.365). At 20h30, there will be a concert with classical pieces by Haydn and Brahms, as well as a contemporary work by Iván Eröd (1936). The concert is free of charge and can be booked separately.

On Saturday (November 21st), a visitation will be arranged at the Casa Mare de la Congregació de la Puresa in Palma’s Carrer de la Puresa, also at 19h00. There, we will be shown rooms from the 19th century including the old cocina, parts of the museum and some of the pieces from the collection of the venerated Madre Alberta. Admission is also 3 € per person. Reservations are required by telephone (902.102.365). At 20h30, there will be a concert of classical music by Vivaldi, Scarlatti, Haendel and Corelli. This concert, too, is free of charge and can be booked separately.

My photo shows a clavicordi played by José Luís González Uriol during last year’s Festival Internacional de Música Antiga de Caimari. The photo was chosen from my archive. It was taken in Caimari, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: December 21st, 2008. The time was 21:00:57.

The Pumpkin Fair in Muro

Yesterday, Muro held its annual Fira de Tardor, encompassing the Fira de Sa Carabassa (pumpkin fair and competition), plus other highlights more. Farmers from Muro and outlying pueblos had entered pumpkins into the contest, weighing in at either 39, 44, 48 or 68 kilogrammes, but were beaten to victory by entry no. 7, the biggest pumpkin I have ever seen, with 98 quilos (that’s 15.5 stone!). The proud winner, a Joan Tomàs Moncades, gained a prize of 250 € in cash as well as the envy of his peers. After the contest, Joan was inundated with requests for semillas of his prized pumpkin.

Anybody interested in the gentle flavours of the Mallorcan pumpkin was treated to a gratifying sample of a bowl of Crema de Carabassa. I have not had any better, ever.

Other than pumpkins, there are numerous treats that await one in Muro all year round, amongst them a very capable Banda de Cornetes i Tambors, a resplendent Esglèsia Parroquial de Sant Joan Baptista with its imposing bell tower, the Claustre del Convent de Santa Anna dels Mínims, the fascinating Museu Etnològic de Muro, the Esglesieta de la Sang and some other highlights which I will tell you about some other time, if you want me to. A visit to this northern town is to be recommended in earnest.

Don’t forget, there will be the Fira de s’Oliva next weekend (November 21st and 22nd) in Caimari, and the weekend after that, the Fira de s’Esclatassang i la Muntanya, in Mancor de la Vall (November 28th and 29th).

The photo was taken in Muro, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 15th, 2009. The time was 12:52:51.

Sharpening The Knives

Mallorca has moved rapidly into the 21st century, away from the 1950s when the island was a rural society and pretty impoverished. The Illes Balears were amongst Spain’s poorest regions in those days and had been all along during the years of the Guerra Civil and the Franco regime.

Today, Mallorca is not a rural society any longer, by any means. Yes, there are still some old customs alive and traditions such as the matançes (autumnal slaughtering of the pig, coming up any time now), the algarroba harvest or a village blacksmith, but few and far between.

Occasionally, you can come across a symbol of yesteryear when for instance a knife sharpener like the one shown here comes into town. I met Jesús years ago, a self-confessed gitano, when he rode a moped and stopped in the pueblos to offer his services. The hind wheel of his ciclomotor Vespino used to keep the grinding stone in fast motion which was employed to sharpen the knives. Much later, he afforded himself a Piaggio three wheeled motor vehicle, again as a means of transport and doubling up as a mobile workshop. To anounce his arrival in let’s say, Ca’s Concos d’es Cavaller, Jesús would play the panpipes to attract his customers. Last week I saw the knife expert for the first time drive up his mobile workshop unit in a Microcar, I think of the Aixam brand, which for its small volume engine (50 cc) can be taken on the road with just a driving licence for mopeds. These small vehicles cost up to 10,000 €, would you believe it? I think one can safely assume that the knife sharpening business keeps our good man in good stead. His skills can be recommended; my wife can vouch for that.

The photo was taken in Felanitx, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: October 30th, 2009. The time was 13:24:29.

Six Weeks To Christmas

I find it unbearingly early to have seen, a few days ago, that Christmas lights were being mounted in the streets of Felanitx. Oh dear. Yesterday the same occurred in Palma, as seen here in Plaça Reina. Also, the El Corte Inglés department store in the Avenidas mounted their store front Navitat attire. But fittingly, the calendar confirms that in six weeks from today, we’ll have everybody hoping to have a jolly festive Cena de Noche Buena.

Thankfully, the Christmas lights will not be switched on for another two to three weeks, here in Felanitx or there in Palma de Mallorca.

From the town of Sóller, we hear the news that there is no money in the coffers for the local Christmas lights to be switched on at all this year. Apparently, due to the lack of municipal funds due to La Crisis, the local community of small shops and traders have agreed to collect contributions for some Christmas lights in Sóller, albeit on a smaller scale. Felicidades.

The photo was taken in Palma de Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 11th, 2009. The time was 07:34:55.

The Postman Only Rings Once

Life often depends on how you look at things. This applies to Mallorca just the same. Take the mail delivery system as an example. I know a number of residents here who, over the years, have done nothing but complain about their mail not reaching them in time, or at all. I personally have nothing but the best experience with the local postal delivery.

Living rurally, which is my own experience, means that mail does not get delivered. Instead, you are meant to collect your mail yourself from the person in charge in your particular village. It may be the local bar where all the mail is delivered to and where you go for a coffee to then nonchalantly enquire about any letters that may have arrived. If not the bar, it may be a local grocery shop where you collect your letters and bills together with a bit of local gossip. In Ca’s Concos d’es Cavaller it used to be a lady who opened her own house for one hour per day to hand out the mail to whoever was expecting some post. I just loved visiting her once a week. At one time, years ago, she greeted me saying that she had heard that I had been put into prison.

Now I live in Felanitx, in a townhouse. The mail gets delivered here a few times per week by the jolliest mail lady you can imagine. We are in the custom of exchanging a kiss on the cheek when she deliveres a long awaited parcel, i. e. it is me kissing her cheek in gratitude for the safe delivery. It’s just wonderful.

Some locals in the countryside are now spoiling it, I think, by putting up mailboxes along a country lane in a rather offensive manner. I suspect it might be foreigners who are too timid to speak the local language and rather opt for the anonymity of an impersonal delivery system without any gossip and without a kiss on the cheek. I pity them.

The photo was chosen from my archive. It was taken near Felanitx, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: January 11th, 2009. The time was 13:52:28.

Autumn Harvest

Just as Mallorca is preparing itself for the arrival of a first wintery spell of snow, albeit only in the highest of our Tramuntana peaks, the countryside is still bristling with a full crop of late Autumn produce. Now is the time when membrillos (quince), nisplers (medlars), noguers (walnuts), clementinas (tangerines) and castanyas (chestnuts) are reaching their final state of ripeness. There may also still be some kakis (persimmons), some late figs, some madroños (strawberry tree fruit) and some magraners (pomegranates) in the markets.

Grapes should have been harvested a few weeks ago. Oranges, lemons and grapefruits will be ripe nearer Christmas time. November is also the month for the harvest of olives, an all-important crop for the local agricultural sector. There are said to be about one million olive trees in Mallorca. The best Mallorcan olive oil now has a Denominación de Origen Oli de Mallorca seal of quality control attached.

Mallorca is not really in the habit of celebrating Thanksgiving as such, as far as I know. No turkeys for us on November 26th, I am afraid.

The photo was taken near Felanitx, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: October 2nd, 2009. The time was 18:40:28.